Poking out of the North Atlantic depths at the western edge of the Norwegian Sea, mostly fitting in the bounds of 14–24 degrees West longitude and 64–66 degrees North latitude, Iceland was and to a large degree still is a stronghold for Atlantic salmon.

Crisp evening in McLean’s Town. We’ve motored across the channel from Deep Water Cay to eat dinner at Alma’s, a local diner known for its excessive portions and countless courses: exquisite crab salad served in Styrofoam cups with plastic forks; conch fritters dipped in a tangy but feisty sauce; fried conch slabs hungry anglers hand-to-mouth like potato chips; then the main entrée of barely battered and briskly fried Caribbean lobsters served alongside rice and beans.