Crisp evening in McLean’s Town. We’ve motored across the channel from Deep Water Cay to eat dinner at Alma’s, a local diner known for its excessive portions and countless courses: exquisite crab salad served in Styrofoam cups with plastic forks; conch fritters dipped in a tangy but feisty sauce; fried conch slabs hungry anglers hand-to-mouth like potato chips; then the main entrée of barely battered and briskly fried Caribbean lobsters served alongside rice and beans.

The clear night sky is flecked with hoards of stars but Mervin, dean of guides at Deep Water Cay, says it’s going to rain tomorrow.

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